Karst in Minnesota
Minnesota's southeastern limestone country is a beautiful area of farms, rolling hills, hollows, caves, and dramatic bluffs and valleys (figure 1).
These same characteristics make southeastern Minnesota water resources most challenging to protect. Petroleum and other chemicals released from underground storage can quickly move into ground water supplies. Manure released from agricultural spills can cause fish kills many miles from the release point. Chemicals used on the landscape can reappear at unexpected times and in unexpected locations.
Figure 1. Minnesota's Karst country
Southeastern Minnesota is so challenging to protect because limestone is slowly dissolved by infiltrating rainwater, sometimes forming hidden, rapid pathways from pollution release points to drinking water wells or surface water. These pathways can be widened, interconnected fractures or caves in the subsurface. Sometimes the process of dissolving limestone forms distinctive landforms on the ground surface, and in other places there is no distinctive landform at all. Together, the processes that dissolve limestone bedrock and the landforms that result are called karst (figure 2). This Web page discusses the process leading to the formation of Minnesota's karst, karst landforms, environmental problems that occur in karst landscapes, and what MPCA is doing about environmental problems related to karst.
Figure 2. Idealized karst landscape, showing many karst landforms
and the subsurface
Source: Graphics provided courtesy of the Southeast Minnesota Water Resources Board as part of a grant funded by the Minnesota Environment and Natural Resources Trust Fund.
How Minnesota's karst landscapes form
Karst is an efficiently drained landscape that forms on soluble rock. Karst is characterized by caves, sinkholes, a lack of surface drainage and other climatically controlled features, and is mainly, but not exclusively, formed on limestone. (For more information, see the Sandstone Karst in Pine County, Minnesota Web page on the Geological Society of America's Web site.)
Karst features arise when rain falls and infiltrates the soil, where the availability of carbon dioxide causes the formation of weak carbonic acid (figure 3). If the slightly acidic soil water never reaches soluble bedrock, nothing happens. But if is able to move into contact with soluble carbonate rocks, dissolution occurs, with calcium, magnesium and bicarbonate ions as by products.
Figure 3. Dissolution of carbonate rock
Source: Image from British Columbia Ministry of Forests
Dissolution of the rock is focused where water flow and surface area are greatest, and this is usually along areas of pre-existing fractures, and partings or bedding planes. These features easily conduct the water, and are gradually widened by dissolution, sometimes widening greatly until they become caves or a collapse feature occurs at the surface.
The water, now ground water, moves within pore space in the rock, and will flow under pressure or in response to gravity until it emerges either as surface water (springs or seeps) or as drinking water (well water).
Karst aquifers are called triple-porosity aquifers (see Worthington, 1999) because water moves within three distinct, but connected, frameworks: matrix, fractures, and conduits. In the matrix, ground water moves relatively slowly, in fractures velocities can be higher, and in conduits the water can move exceedingly fast.
For the same reason, karst aquifers are very difficult to protect from activities at the ground surface. For while pollutants are quickly transported to drinking water wells or surface water, conventional hydrogeologic tools such as monitoring wells are of limited usefulness. The best strategy is pollution prevention.
Karst landforms in Minnesota
Karst landforms are concentrated in southeastern Minnesota. In figure 4 (courtesy of E. Calvin Alexander, University of Minnesota), most karst landforms are found in the red zone ("active karst"), and some are found in the yellow zone ("transitional karst"). Relatively few karst landforms are found in the green zone ("covered karst").
Figure 4. Minnesota Karst Lands
Source: E. Calvin Alexander, University of Minnesota
Minnesota's most common karst features are discussed and illustrated below (definitions supplied by Calvin Alexander, University of Minnesota, and Jeff Green, Minnesota Department of Natural Resources).
The MPCA, with assistance from several partners, recently produced an educational poster that specifically highlights karst features in Minnesota. The poster can be downloaded below. A limited number of copies may still be available. Please contact the following to enquire: Nancy Miller, MPCA Rochester Office, 800-657-3864 or 507-206-2631, or Sandeep Burman, MPCA St. Paul Office, 800-657-3864 or 651-757-2569.
Subsurface drainage (lack of surface water)
When rainwater infiltrates quickly, as in a karst landscape, water is not collected into streams, and cannot cut valleys. Instead the most distinctive feature may be the total lack of drainage features (figure 5).
Figure 5. Subsurface drainage (lack of surface water)
Blind valley
A valley that terminates abruptly at a point where its stream sinks, or once sank, underground. Blind valleys (figure 6) are completely enclosed valleys that water can not flow out of on the surface. Disappearing streams often sink in blind valleys.
Figure 6. Aerial Photograph Showing Location of Blind Valley
Cave
A feature generally formed by solution of limestone containing a natural underground room or series of rooms and passages large enough to be entered by people (figure 7).
Figure 7. Cave
Photograph courtesy of Allen Lewerer
Disappearing stream
Surface streams that run into holes in the ground and partially or completely cease flowing on the surface (figure 8).
Figure 8. Disappearing stream
Photograph courtesy of Jeff Green, MDNR
Sinkhole
A closed depression caused by a collapse of soil or overlying formation above fractured or cavernous bedrock (figure 9).
Figure 9. Air photo of sinkholes on a sinkhole plain near
Fountain, Minnesota
Spring
Any natural discharge of water from rock or overlying soil onto the surface of the land or into a body of surface water (figure 10). A disappearing stream may re-emerge at a spring.
Figure 10. Cold Spring, near Mazeppa, Minnesota
Environmental problems that occur in Minnesota's karst country, and MPCA programs that address them
In karst country, bedrock dissolution and rapid ground water flow result in a hydrogeologic setting sensitive to land use. Sometimes chemical changes occur that render water unsafe to drink. Or in some settings, chemical changes cause environmental damage to surface waters. The most spectacular environmental problems occur when bedrock dissolves so completely that it collapses.
Pollution of drinking water wells
The high yields prized by supply-well drillers are due to the solution enhanced porosity and resulting high transmission zones that may also cause carbonate aquifers to be easily polluted. Rapid water flow usually means that little filtration has occurred, and water originating at a pollution source may rapidly move, perhaps undetected, to a drinking water well.
Pollution of surface water
In karst landscapes, the distinction between ground water and surface water is commonly blurry, and sometimes very tenuous. Ground water may emerge as a spring, flow a short distance above ground, only to vanish in a disappearing stream, and perhaps re-emerge farther downstream again as surface water.
The intimate connection between ground water and surface water gives rise to large number of cold water streams in southeastern Minnesota where trout and other important species thrive. Pollution traveling rapidly along a ground water path may emerge at a lake or stream, thus posing a threat to the animals and plants living there. In the same way, pollution that has reached surface water can easily become ground water pollution, thus posing a pollution risk to people whose drinking water is ground water.
Problems related to the collapse of dissolving bedrock
Collapse of carbonate bedrock beneath liquid storage basins has been reported in many states, including North Carolina, Missouri, Iowa, and Minnesota.
Municipal sewage lagoons have collapsed in three southeastern Minnesota communities (Altura, Bellechester, and Lewiston) since 1976. All three lagoons were built in similar hydrogeologic settings: shallow carbonate bedrock beneath a thin layer of sand or sandstone (Alexander and Book, 1984; Dalgleish and Alexander, 1984). Geologists theorize that the lagoons' high leakage rates saturated the sandy material beneath with carbonate-poor water, which readily dissolved the underlying carbonate bedrock, or washed soil into preexisting solution cavities. In either case, the undermined lagoons collapsed, sending millions of gallons of sewage to the aquifer (Alexander and Book, 1984; Dalgleish and Alexander, 1984).
MPCA programs addressing environmental problems in Minnesota's karst country
The best strategy to prevent problems related to pollution in the subsurface is pollution prevention: Preventing waste and pollution
The Hazardous Waste program and the Feedlot program adopt the pollution prevention approach. See the following documents for more information:
Legislative Fact Sheet on Karst Workgroup Recommendation
Siting Manure Storage Areas in Minnesota's Karst Region: State Requirements
Where a pollution problem has already occurred, several remedial responses are available to repair damage. Remedial responses usually focus on breaking the link within the ground water path connecting the pollution source to the drinking water well. The MPCA remediation programs (LUST, VPIC, VIC, Superfund, and Landfills) adopt this approach. The remediation program approach to cleanups in karst areas is available on the following fact sheet:
Links to karst-related web sites
Government
- SE MN Board of Water Resources
- Environmental Protection Agency
- Cold Water Cave State Park, northeastern Iowa
- Karst in British Columbia
- Minnesota's Forestville/Mystery Cave - Minnesota Department of Natural Resources
- Caves
- U.S. Geological Survey
- Karst Landscapes of Illinois
- Sinkholes - U.S. Geological Survey
- Minnesota Geological Survey
- Minnesota Department of Natural Resources Data Deli
Academic
- University of Minnesota Water Resources Center
- Minnesota Karst Campaign, University of Minnesota Water Resources Center
- Illinois State Geological Survey - Sink Holes and Karst Information
- Center for Caves and Karst, Western Kentucky University
- Karst Dynamics Laboratory
- Sandstone Karst, East-central Minnesota
Online publications
- Geotimes Magazine
- Southeast Minnesota Website for Scientific Studies on Ground Water, Aquifers, Karst Geology and Strategic Planning for Pollution Prevention - Agriculture
- The Virtual Hall of Springs
Organizations focused on karst
- Indiana Karst Conservancy
- Karst Waters Institute
- Kentucky Caverns
- Caving Canada
- American Cave Conservation Association, Inc.
- Links to International Karst-related Web Sites
- International Association of Hydrogeologists (IAH) Karst Commission
- American Geological Institute
- National Speleological Society
Karst in the news
Karst aerial or space imagery
Companies concerned with karst
- PELA Sinkhold and Karst Conferences
- Dytracing.com - Karst Information from Western Kentucky University
- Geography Matters for Cave and Karst Management and Research - ESRI
- Environmental Problems in Karst Lands
Journals related to karst
References cited
- Alexander, E. Calvin Jr., and Book, Paul R. 1984. Altura Minnesota lagoon collapses. In Proceedings of the First Multidisciplinary Conference on Sinkholes, Orlando, Florida, October 15-17, 1984, pp. 311-318.
- Dalgleish, Janet, and Alexander, E. Calvin, Jr. 1984. Sinkhole distribution in Winona County, Minnesota. In Proceedings of the First Multidisciplinary Conference on Sinkholes, Orlando, Florida, October 15-17, 1984, pp. 79-85.
- Living with Karst—A fragile foundation. AGI Environmental Awareness Series, 4. American Geological Institute, 2001. 65 pp.
- Worthington, Stephen R. H. 1999. A comprehensive strategy for understanding flow in carbonate aquifers. In Palmer, Arthur N., Palmer, Margaret V., and Sasosky, Ira D. Karst Modeling--Proceeding of the symposium held February 24-27, 1999, Charlottesburg, Virginia. Special publication 5 of the Karst Waters Institute, Charles Town, West Virginia. Pages 30-37.
More information
For more information about karst in Minnesota, contact Steve Thompson, 651-757-2778.
Culinary Wine Tour
2 Day Sonoma Country Sample Itinerary
(Mix or Match)
Day One:
Spring Hill Cheese - Petaluma. A herd of 400 Jersey cows provides the milk for Spring Hill Jersey Cheese's growing line of farmstead cheeses. Smaller than Holsteins, (the archetypal black- and white- cow), which produce a greater quantity yield, the milk of Jersey cows contains a higher butter fat, resulting in an incomparable rich, creamy flavor. Because of its low quantity yield, the Jersey is no longer common in most commercial dairy operations. Larry Peter began his dairy in 1987, and started producing Spring Hill Jersey Cheese in 1998. The homestead, artisan cheese produced by Spring Hill is made entirely from the milk of pasture-grazed Jersey cows.
Roche Carneros Winery - Sonoma/Carneros. You're invited to enjoy the views of Carneros and enjoy the history of the Carneros region and Roche winery. Horseback riding and wagon rides are available with advance appointments through Wine Country Trailrides.
Viansa Winery - Sonoma/Carneros. Guests are invited into an underground barrel-aging cellar to hear the story of how Viansa Winery blended state-of-the-art California winemaking technology with classic Italian techniques to produce world-class Italian varietals. Visit their international marketplace and then enjoy a picnic lunch overlooking Viansa's 90 acre waterfowl preserve.
Wine Blending at Ravenswood Winery - Sonoma.The classic California "field blend" consists of Zinfandel, Petite Sirah and Carignane combined in percentages determined by the winemaker for that vintage. You can try your hand at blending these three wines in the proportion your palate prefers — then take home a 375-ml bottle of the results to amaze (and hopefully impress) your friends.
or
Picnic/Box Lunch at Winery of Choice
Jack London Village - Glen Ellen - Visit the historical village of Glen Ellen. While there taste hand made truffles at Wine Country Chocolates and sample artisan cheeses at Raymond Co.-The Cheese Mongers.
Benziger Winery - Glen Ellen - Several times a day the Massey 375 tractor pulls a tram of visitors through our Sonoma estate vineyards, gardens and wildlife sanctuaries for a 45-minute adventure in winegrowing. Along the way, we stop for visitors to take a closer look at the vines, learn more about our site-specific farming practices and enjoy the breathtaking scenery. The Sonoma Mountain winery tour includes a visit to our underground estate caves and a tasting of our wines in the Glen Ellen tasting room.
Lodging in Santa Rosa
Day Two:
Chateau St Jean - Kenwood. Select from several classes offered to groups with reservations.
Come to Your Senses This tasting is designed to enlighten your senses to the many fascinating organic compounds that exist in wines. Our Wine Educator will help you identify, describe and remember the complex aromas and flavors in wine
Dynamics of Food & Wine Experience a cutting edge approach to keeping food and wine in balance, and learn the culinary tools that all the great chefs know. This class is a must for all who are passionate about wine & food.
Winemakers Blending A rare and fantastic opportunity to become a "Winemaker For A Day". Experience the challenge of evaluating and blending four component wines and creating a blend to compete in the "Best Blend" Taste-off. This is a great team-building exercise and great for small groups (4 person minimum).
Matanzas Creek Winery - Santa Rosa. The Winery Estate property is now home to six lavender gardens with over 4,500 lavender plants that represent unique design themes intended to complement the natural beauty and elements that surround the area allocated to the garden. Strategically designed and planted our gardens do gracefully appear as seemingly random drifts of native grasses, wildflowers and trees. For culinary applications, Matanzas Creek Winery currently produces Provence lavender flowers and seeds, herbs de Provence (a mix of marjoram, savory, basil, rosemary, and thyme), grilling "straw" and lavender tea. 2005 plans include the development of additional lavender-influenced culinary products.
Korbel Champagne Cellars - Guerneville. Lunch and tour in the heart of the historic Russian River Valley, near the majestic ancient redwood groves of Armstrong Woods State Reserve and the scenic wonder of the Pacific Coastline, the estate is a showcase of the heritage and the history of winemaking in North America. More than 2,000 acres of rolling hills are host to the Korbel vineyards, growing a variety of grapes including Chardonnay, Chenin Blanc, and the special Pinot Noir that makes Korbel Champagne one of the most sought after in the world. Enjoy an extended tour of the famous Korbel Champagne Cellars, where you can see up close how champagne is made. Included in the tour is complimentary tastes of Korbel's finest (for age 21 & over). The Korbel Wine Shop and Tasting Room features Korbel champagnes, wines and brandies. The gift shop presents treasures of wine country, including unique glassware, pottery, cookbooks and wine accessories. After your tour, enjoy culinary delights at the Korbel Delicatessen, stroll through the Korbel Rose Garden Tour, and celebrate the spectacular land that is California Wine Country.
Kendall Jackson Winery- Santa Rosa. The magnificent Château at the Kendall-Jackson Wine Center sits on 120 acres in the center of Sonoma Country. Experience the charm, romance and flavors of the wine country all right here. Tour our culinary and sensory gardens, explore our viticulture exhibit or picnic in the shade of our 100-year-old walnut grove. Naturally, you won't want to miss a stop in our tasting room, where our knowledgeable staff and extended family welcome you.
Armstrong Redwoods State Reserve - Guerneville. This 805-acre park features a magnificent grove of ancient redwoods, a large outdoor amphitheater, self-guided nature trails and a variety of picnic facilities. During the 1880's, this area was set aside as a "natural park and botanical garden" by Colonel James Armstrong, an early-day lumber man who recognized the beauty and natural value of the forests he harvested. Today, the ancient redwood forest within the park is the largest remaining old-growth redwood forest in Sonoma County. It is a living reminder of the magnificent primeval redwood forest that covered much of this area before logging operations began during the 19th century.
Catered Lunch or Box Lunch at Winery of Choice
In lieu of Chateau St. Jean try Chalk Hill Winery:
Chalk Hill Winery - Santa Rosa. Chalk Hill is a ruggedly beautiful 1,200 acre estate. Surrounded by heritage oak woodlands and natural riparian streams, a scant 292 vineyard acres meander a patchwork of 60 different small vineyards, each dedicated to producing distinctive wines of elegance and power. Here artisans of the vineyard and cellar collaborate to handcraft wines that reflect the vibrant and diverse character of the Chalk Hill Estate.
Estate Tour 1 ½ hours Your tour will begin with a discussion of the varied terrain and terroir of our 1,200-acre estate, the Chalk Hill appellation, and our unique history and approach to viticulture. You'll explore our hillside vineyards and park and participate in a lively exchange on winemaking and wine appreciation. This tour includes tastings of our current wines. Available by appointment Monday through Friday at 10 am, 1 pm and 3 pm. $20 per person.
Culinary Tour 2 ½ hours Your afternoon will begin by touring the Furth family's private culinary garden where organically-farmed produce is the inspiration for Executive Chef Didier Ageorges' culinary artistry. Following a brief excursion through the vineyards, you will arrive at the Pavilion— a conservatory overlooking the Furth's equestrian center with panoramic views of the Chalk Hill valley. There, you will enjoy a sit-down tasting of our wines paired with several small plates prepared by Chef Didier. Available by appointment Monday, Thursday, or Friday at 2:30 pm. If you have a party of 6 or more, they can accommodate by appointment Monday through Friday. $75 per person.
Kozlowski Farms - Forestville. Kozlowski Farms is one of the oldest family owned and operated farms in Sonoma County, California. Established in 1949, Carmen and Tony Kozlowski began their journey into creating the finest homemade jams, jellies and bakery treats in Carmen's home kitchen.
Instead of dinner on own, try free time and dinner in Sebastopol:
Town of Sebastopol - The group may enjoy an afternoon of shopping in the town of Sebastopol, located just West of Santa Rosa. Specialty shops and restaurants line 3 blocks of Main Street, just 10 minutes South of Kowalski Farms.
Lodging in Santa Rosa or Sebastopol
View a sample two day itinerary map.
Europe/Middle East
1. Montreal, Canada
In need of some culture during the summer months? From fireworks to fashion, a summer in Montreal will offer up more cultural festivals than you can shake a stick at. Highlights include the Montréal International Fireworks Competition (June to August), Just for Laughs comedy Festival (July), Festival International de Jazz de Montréal (June/July) and the Montréal Fashion & Design Festival (August). Complimented by warm weather, boutique shops and an impressive restaurant scene – Montreal is the ideal cultural escape.
Plan your trip to Montreal
Plus! Find out more about Montreal's festival season with Tourism Montreal
2. Edinburgh, Scotland
If you're a fan of arts festivals, look no further than Scotland's capital city. Dotted through the summer are the world-famous Edinburgh festivals - during August alone you can catch the Jazz and Blues festival, the Edinburgh Festival Fringe and of course, the Tattoo: a mix of music, ceremony, entertainment and theatre set against the backdrop of Edinburgh Castle. Whether you want some red carpet glamour at the International Film Festival or to watch comedy and theatre in the streets of the old town, festival season in Edinburgh won't disappoint.
Plan your trip to Edinburgh
Best for city beaches...
3. Dubrovnik, Croatia
Spend a summer in Dubrovnik to get the best of both worlds – a fascinating old town brimming with sights and a long pebbly coastline with inviting turquoise waters. You can swim and sunbathe in many spots along Dubrovnik's coastline but the most well-known beaches include Banje, Kopakabana, Uvala and Lokrum beach on Lokrum Island – an easy boat trip away from Dubrovnik old town. And, if you can tear yourself away from your sun bed, take a stroll round the old city walls for stunning views of the Adriatic.
Plan your trip to Dubrovnik
4. San Sebastian, Spain
San Sebastian is the ultimate destination for an urban beach break. This pretty city in the Basque country of northern Spain is ideally situated on the Bay of Biscay and boasts come of the best city beaches in the world. It's the summer capital of Spain so don't expect to find it deserted but the beaches are so lovely, you'll soon forget the crowds. San Sebastian is also famed for its food (the city has 15 Michelin stars!) – so don't forget to refuel on some delicious Spanish tapas in one of the city's many fine eateries as the sun sets.
Plan your trip to San Sebastian
5. Stockholm, Sweden
Stockholm is a beautiful city to visit at any time of year, but it really comes to life in the summer months when it's warm enough to see the sights and explore the city to the full. Many visitors are unaware of Stockholm's secret weapon – the spectacular archipelago featuring a staggering 30,000 islands, islets and skerries – and just a boat trip or ferry ride away from the city. Find fine sandy beaches where you can sunbathe, take a dip in the Baltic Sea and eat seafood till your heart's content on islands such as Sandhamm, Möja and Utö.
Plan your trip to Stockholm
Best for outdoor activities...
6. Denver, USA
It's often thought of as a winter travel destination but Denver has plenty to offer on warm summers' days. Watch outdoor theatre and movies at Red Rocks Amphitheatre or one of the many free Jazz concerts in City Park - and if you want to stay outside as you see the sights, try a visit to the botanic gardens, Denver Zoo or the Elitch Gardens theme park. There's plenty for more active travellers too, including kayaking on the Colorado River and exploring the Rocky Mountain National Park – just a short journey from the city.
Plan your trip to Denver
Best for culture...
7. Quito, Ecuador
The temperatures in Quito can plummet for much of the year long so take advantage of the summer respite and plan your trip for July or August. From centuries-old cathedrals to traditional restaurants and local crafts markets, you can really embrace the local cultures with a visit to Ecuador's capital city. Discover beautiful Spanish Colonial architecture in the old town (an UNESCO World Heritage Site) where you'll meet crowds of indígenas and mestizos – and can visit Ecuador's premier museum: the Museo del Banco Central.
Plan your trip to Quito
8. Ljubljana, Slovenia
Have a cultural summer city break in Ljubljana where you'll find numerous theatres, museums and galleries as well as ten international festivals each year – you'll discover all the charm of Prague but without the crowds. The summer is the best time to explore this picturesque city – discover incredible architecture including buildings, bridges and pathways bestowed by Joze Plecnik, (Slovenia's greatest architect) or visit the magical old town and climb the clock tower of Ljubljana Castle to take in spectacular views of the Alps.
Plan your trip to Ljubljana
Best for eating al fresco...
9. Kuala Lumpur, Malaysia
Kuala Lumpur's continually warm climate makes it the perfect place for eating outdoors – from dining al fresco to strolling through the many food markets. KL is a foodie paradise with a melting pot of Malay, Chinese and Indian cultures resulting in a tasty range of cuisines to suit every palette. Find a range of delicious eateries and bustling local food markets in Little India, Chinatown and the Golden Triangle; where Bukit Bintang offers plenty of outside dining options and live entertainment in its many cafes and bistros.
Plan your trip to Kuala Lumpur
10. San Francisco, USA
With more than three thousand restaurants and food from every corner of the globe, food-lovers can indulge in a whole host of culinary delights during the summer in San Francisco. The Californian city is great to explore on foot so the summer months are the ideal time to browse the many restaurants and cafes before choosing your spot. The al fresco dining options are endless in this foodie city – head downtown to Taylor's Automatic Refresher – for classic burgers on a huge outdoor terrace - or bistro Plouf, if you're after something more upmarket.
Plan your trip to San Francisco
Travel Spotlight: Rio Caliente Spa, Gaudalajara, Mexico
I'm planning a trip to Rio Caliente this spring with the intention of writing about their exquisite food.
As I began to think about watching the colourful birds through the windows of the tree-house style eating area or riding horseback into the mountains along the steaming river or hiking under a star-congested sky breathing air sweetened by the wild anise plants and the faint aroma of wood smoke, I wanted to share this place with you.
It's a magical place nestled in the valley of the Primavera State Forest in the Jalisco State of Mexico. It's far from swine flu and there is no drg gang warfare. The wild dogs yelping from the hills is about all the racket you'll need to put up with during your stay. The workers ride in on horseback from the neighbourhing village. The bread is baked daily in a large woodburning oven situated in the middle of the expansive vegetable gardens. It's that sort of place.
The use of the word spa here refers more to the classical European style - reconnecting to yourself in a natural environment; receiving enough solitude to rest and enough collaboration to connect; enjoying traditional body treatments with ingredients like volcanic mud and eucalyptus; eating delicious food; sleeping in rustic but charming villas. Everything about Rio Caliente is high quality but nothing about it screams obnoxious. There are no high maintenance manicured leotard-wearing members of the chattering calorie-counting classes. It's more thoughtful than new agey, more holistic than militaristic, more quirky than staid. It's also supremely affordable which helps it to keep its charm (and its eclectic range of guests). The last time I was there I met a nurse who worked with the Peace Corps as a mid-wife in the small villages scattered in the mountains of El Salvador. It's that sort of place. You meet people who inspire you in small but significant ways.
Their official website has everything you need to know -- spa treatment specificities; the mineral elements of the hot spring pools; how to get to and from the Spa (Guadalajara International Airport is 20 miles; Puerta Vallarta is 200 miles); the weather through the seasons; massage and bodywork; accommodation; and food.
Meals are buffet style and you eat at communal tables. You can talk or not talk. Nobody minds. Makeshift bird feeders swing by large chains from the tree branches and attract all sorts of interesting characters - the squirrel-tailed cuckoo and the Motmot, for example - who sit and feed on the colourful chunks of watermelon. Breakfast has coffee and tea and fresh squeezed juices. There is always homemade bread, granola and oatmeal, as well as traditional Mexican beans, eggs and potatoes. And loads of fresh fruit: melon, papaya, mango, banana plus fresh yogurt and honey, muffins, and breads. Specialties include cactus with eggs, potato pancakes, french toast.
Lunch is always a colourful fresh display of an assortment of salads (brown rice with pecans and beansprouts; jicama, nut and parsley; bell pepper with chihuahua cheese; cucumber and mint with alfalfa; grated carrots with raisins; white bean with roquefort; lentils; beets; etc.), a hot entree (cabbage rolls; zucchini and corn casserole; stuffed chayote squash; eggplant parmigiana; almond, carrot and nut loaf; red rice with lentils, chickpeas and mexican sauce; white rice with corn and sesame seeds), sides of raw vegetables, homemade seed bread, tortillas, seeds, and more fruit.
Dinner is a less extravagant meal and more than often consists of a hearty soup (black bean; split pea; zucchini and fresh corn; chard and barley; carrot with apple and ginger), tortillas, bread and various salads.
It's all delicious and abundant.
Day trips to the cultural city of Guadalajara are available. I recommend it. Take the day, wander the old town of cobbled streets and contemporary public sculptures, visit the hundreds of small private gallery spaces, eat lunch in a colonial style courtyard, have a margerita, then a Mexican beer, and pay attention to the interesting architectural style called churriguerresque which combines Spanish architecture with the skill of the Indian craftsmen and results in detailed stone facade decoration and ornamentation. Visit the large central food and crafts market -- a byzantine place of one-stop shopping.
**All photographs are the copyright of Rio Caliente Spa. They were used in an article I published in the spring of 2009 in various CanWest Global publications about the spa.
Travel Spotlight - Basel

Down By the River
Crossing the Rhine in a motor‐less boat without an oar in sight, I began to re‐evaluate the bland, uber efficient stereotype given to many a Swedish city. Just like Zurich, everything in Basel runs efficiently to within a fraction of a second, blondes abound and there isn’t a trace of trash anywhere. However, scratch the surface and you’ll find a subtle hedonistic streak that’ll rival the raunchiest of the twenty to thirty something resorts.
The city might share its name with a key ingredient in a Capri salad, but that’s where the dull connotations end. A river crossing on the clever, rapid harnessing boats or a stroll along the south bank of the Rhine in the St. Alban Rheinweg area ‐ is all you need to confirm this. On any given day expect to see seasoned, Saga touring pensioners ambling past pierced and naked sunbathers, strewn spread eagle style on benches, concrete slabs and whatever else they can find to plant their cheeks on. Naked punk rockers soak up the sun next to the social elite of the prim and proper crowd, and no one bats an eyelid. In this respect Basel even eclipses the carefree ambience of Amsterdam.
Just beyond the Prince Albert parade you’ll find the wonderfully less than conventional Tinguely Museum. The museum’s namesake Jean Tinguely, was something of a barrier breaker in the art scene and his collection of moving machine sculptures, resembles a technologically primitive audition for Robocop. Many of the pieces fill display spaces the size of aircraft hangers and best of all, they’re all activated with the push of a giant, red, button! The exploded and suspended Formula One sports car, fused with a 1930s cinema projector is a big draw, as is the army of armour clad, stick men who resemble the magically animated troops in the final battle of Bedknobs and Broomsticks. You won’t find Angela Lansbury singing away here, but you will find a cool and culturally aware crowd to mix it with.
Sports and More
Back by the river it’s worth taking an hour out to mix a few units with your bloodstream, while observing the sports scene. Champion punters put their counterparts at Oxford to shame with their navigation of the intricate obstacle course, laid out in a stretch of river that flows west at close to twenty miles per hour. The freestyle swimmers are equally nifty, stowing their belonging in buoyant bags before jumping in for sling shot swims. Specially constructed side channels give these brave souls a chance to escape the swell before the bend, but if you miss these ‐ then you are, quite simply, toast.
A great spot to calm your nerves after such an observatory session and one yet to be ruined by tourists, is the rooftop bar of the car park, directly opposite the Messeplatz tram station. Simply head to the top floor and amble towards the bamboo enclosure with the palm trees. You can’t miss it. It’s free to get in and inside you can enjoy a leisurely swim, a spot of volleyball on the imported beach or a cocktail, and a recline on one of the oh‐so‐cool hammocks. Ironically the bar is sponsored by Camel, but the no smoking policy means that all cigarettes get checked at the door.
For something of a hedonistic kinky kick without an alcoholic percentage, head on down the Cartoon Museum on St. Alban‐Vorstadt. This one is worth the trip just to gape in open mouthed awe at the reinvention of Barbie as the dominatrix ‘Bar‐bitch,’ and even if you don’t want to pay 12 Swiss Francs to get in, the postcard selection in the gift shop gives you an extensive preview of the best cartoons in the passing erotic collections. Think for example of various domestic animals, waiting in braced anticipation for the cuckoo clock to strike, and you’re half way there. Check the museum schedule to see which particular variety of erotica happens to be coming to town.
Musical Tattoos
Snap back to reality for a second and you’ll find Basel in possession of a few traditional traits that draw international crowds from every walk, and persuasion of life. The annual Military Tattoo in July is a festival that never fails to deliver and one which in 2009, saw the Queen’s Royal Guard take a break from their Buckingham Palace duties, horses and all, to show the Swiss just how it’s done. If you don’t get goose pimples from military processions set to national anthems then the contemporary tracks will more than likely illicit a rise. In 2009 MJ received the highest of honours from the Queen’s Guard as they covered Thriller, complete with smoke effects and flickering clock tower illuminations, before launching straight into a very jazzy, and slightly inappropriate, upbeat rendition of Candle in the Wind.
Old School Hedonism
The Kunstmuseum in Basel has a great reputation for taking classic exhibits and injecting a bit of oomph, which is exactly what they did with the Van Gogh ‐ Between Earth and Heaven session. The clever curators took the recorded environment around our earless artistic crusader, analysed its impact on his more than fragile state of mind, factored in the influence of his contemporary Belle Époque artist friends and brought it all to a head with a tragic narration of the final, drawn out days of illness and unconsciousness, after Van Gogh shot himself during a bout or drunken depression, and rowing with brother Theo.
If that doesn’t sell the city named after the infamous fox puppet to you, then try taking tram 6 to the Fondation Beyeler at Riehen. A twenty minute ride will bring you to the most astounding pairing of Monet’s, thirty foot long Water Lilies piece and an equally grand, reflecting pool, full to the brim with the same aquatic growths. The neighbouring Berower Park restaurant is pretty satisfying too and kind to your wallet when you’re passing through town on a backpacker budget.
Watch out Magaluf ‐ Basel’s more affordable than ever, there’s not a judgemental battering of an eyelid in sight and it’s only a sixty minute flight from London City Airport. Freedom loving, budget conscious travellers ‐ start your engines.
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