Travel Spotlight: Guatemala City




Like Guatemala itself – a country nicknamed “Land of Eternal Spring” – Guatemala City has experienced constant rebirth. Since replacing Antigua as Guatemala’s seat of power in 1773, it has weathered earthquakes, political scandals, and daunting crime rates to become one of the largest and most cosmopolitan cities in Central America and the Caribbean. Troubles aside, Guatemala City’s architectural beauty and rich history make it an intriguing place to visit.
Guatemala City is located in a mountain valley, its borders dotted by four volcanoes. For thrill seekers, the active 2552m high Volcan Pacaya is 50 km Southwest of the city. Guides are available for hire and make the hike look simple, though some might prefer renting a burro. The terrain, streaked with dried lava, turns to rocky ash and, finally, to craters of glowing lava and a breathtaking valley view.
Back on Earth, the capital hums with activity. Traffic seems ceaseless as commuters flood the streets, often en route to beautiful colonial Antigua. Urbanites are busy but laid back. Few walk – public transport includes taxis and the new Transmetro bus system, though the colorfully tricked out “chicken buses” are perhaps better known. The military presence is strong in the capital; armed troops are a common sight.
For history buffs, Guatemala City’s Mayan past can be explored in Zone 7 at the park preserving the ceremonial center of the ancient Mayan city of Kaminaljuyu and in Zone 10 at the Museo Popol Vuh. More recent history can also be honored, as Guatemala City’s Spanish colonial roots are visible in its much of its architecture. The Centro Histórico in Zone 1 features buildings like the Palacio Nacional de la Cultura, the Metropolitan Cathedral, the Casa Presidencial, and la Plaza de la Constitución. Stroll through the Mercado Central’s dizzying cornucopia of stands selling produce, meats, traditional wares, and delicacies. El Centro is also near Cerrita del Carmen, a centuries-old hermitage overlooking the city. Closed for decades due to crime, it has recently reopened. Take care in this part of town, as throughout Guatemala City. Though foreigners are rarely hassled, muggings are common. Wear bag straps across your body and leave gadgets at home.
Guatemala City looks eagerly past its roots and towards the future. The blossoming art scene has fostered many galleries and the Centro Cultural Miguel Ángel Asturias – named for the Guatemala City-born Nobel Laureate writer - hosts theater and musical performances. La Zona Viva is a nightlife hub for the urban elite. Excellent restaurants, bars, and clubs may be found here, throbbing with reggaeton and rum. While locals might prefer the ethnic fare now available, the traditional specialties must be tried. Inhale chicken stews like tomatillo and cilantro-rich jocon or squash seed, chile, and sesame seed pepian. Frijoles negros are omnipresent; black beans pureed into dubious-looking dark brown masses yet heavenly when spread on tortillas. Guatemalan-style tamales are especially delicious – wrapped in banana leaves, steamed until mealy, and stuffed with red peppers, chicken, and olives. Enjoy them with squirts of lime and a bottle of Gallo – Guatemala’s national beer。


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